• Thibault's Review
• Couple's Trip
• 15 days in August 2016
• Guide: Mohammed – Middle Atlas

A week before our departure for Marrakech, we finally decided to contact mountain guides in Morocco to organize a trek in the Middle Atlas. We settled on Mohammed’s proposal: a 10-day trek in the Mgoun, staying in permanent structures for 400 euros per person, all-inclusive. We chose to climb Mgoun mainly because it’s less touristy (compared to Toubkal, the highest peak in the Middle Atlas). Mgoun is a bit farther from Marrakech, about a 5-hour drive. It rises to 4,068 meters above sea level, compared to just a few meters higher for Toubkal. We didn’t regret this choice—quite the opposite. We were able to enjoy this magnificent region almost entirely on our own, encountering fewer than one group of hikers per day.

“We chose to climb Mgoun mainly because of its reputation for being off the beaten path”

It takes well under 10 days to climb Mgoun. So we took the opportunity to explore other splendid regions of the Moroccan Atlas Mountains, such as the “Happy Valley” and the “Valley of Roses.” Mohamed owns a guesthouse in the heart of the Happy Valley where we spent our first two nights. Before reaching Mgoun, we fully enjoyed the diversity of this region, from lush green valleys to arid hills and snow-capped peaks. We stayed in guesthouses or with local families. And we often talked about Moroccan culture with Mohamed while discovering the country’s culinary specialties (tajines in the evening, fresh vegetables, barbecue skewers, Moroccan soups and breads, traditional desserts, mint tea, etc.). We usually had lunch along the way.

“Rates much more affordable than going through an agency”

Throughout the trek, our backpacks were carried by mules. We walked at our own pace, averaging 10 hours a day. And Mohamed was particularly attentive during difficult moments, often offering to adjust the itinerary if needed. It’s important to note that Mohamed guides all types of groups (families, couples, seniors, young athletes). Also, Mohamed has been traversing the Moroccan Atlas Mountains since he was a child and knows everyone in the villages. He therefore gets local rates: while chatting with other hiking groups, we quickly realized that his rates were much more affordable than most of those offered by French travel agencies.

We began the ascent of Mgoun at 4 a.m. after five days of intensive trekking; we finally returned around 3 p.m. It’s worth noting that the Berber name for Mgoun means “windy mountain,” which proves quite true at the summit. We were equipped with crampons to walk on the ice, and Mohamed used an ice axe to carve footholds in the snow during the ascent. It was a day of intense physical exertion, and despite the Moroccan sun, we were dressed in ski gear to withstand the cold at that altitude.

We have magical memories of this expedition: lunch at the summit, the satisfaction of having completed the climb, and the pleasure of gazing at the imposing mountain ranges of the Moroccan Atlas. Back in Marrakech, we visited cultural sites and markets and enjoyed a well-deserved rest in a local riad. If you have a little time, we recommend planning day trips (for example, to Essaouira).

“This trip truly opened our eyes to the underappreciated splendors of this region of Morocco”

Looking back, I feel this trip truly opened our eyes to the underappreciated splendors of this region of Morocco, which we highly recommend you visit. We discovered a local way of life very different from our everyday European routine. The hospitality of the locals and our introduction to Berber culture helped make this trek in Morocco an unforgettable and truly exotic experience.